Paddling Through Mangroves
Krabi, Thailand

We were paddling slowly in our sea kayak alongside the limestone cliffs and through the mangroves of the Andaman Sea on the West Coast of the Southern Peninsula of Thailand. One of our guides spotted a monkey in the trees and a member of our group pulled a banana from her bag. The monkey jumped down, swam to the kayak—Will swim for food!—jumped aboard, and grabbed the banana. He grabbed her bag, too, and jumped back in the water. The bag sank as the monkey swam back to shore.

Except for that funny and unpredictable incident, gliding through the mangroves near Krabi is an extremely tranquil experience. And yet it’s completely exhilarating. The current is gentle, the water is flat, and paddling is easy, but you never really know what you’ll see around the next bend. This entire area is an ancient reef that’s been weathered and eroded for eons by water and wind. The limestone islands with straight walled cliffs are filled with hidden lagoons, tunnels, and caves, many of which have enthralling stalactites; others have ancient aboriginal drawings. Keep an eye out for wildlife, like birds of prey, monitor lizards, and possibly even monkeys. Each site is more interesting than the one before, leaving a lasting impression of this beautiful region. When (or if) you tire of just seeing the sights, take a more active approach. On our trip, the tide went out as we were paddling and sandbars became accessible. We beached the kayaks, had a great swim, and snorkeled before shoving off again.

Your best option is to do this trip with a guide (we’ve listed a couple of outfitters below), unless you know the region well and are an experienced kayaker. With a guide, even children and first-time kayakers will enjoy the trip.

Water-lovers will adore Krabi for more than just its kayaking. Less touristy than Phuket, the beaches are pristine with soft white sand. You can spend your days lounging, or take a cruise among the more than 150 mostly uninhabited islands. You can even hire a boat to take you to Phang Nga Bay and the island where the James Bond movie The Man with the Golden Gun was filmed. (The bay is stunning, but the island is now a tourist stop.)

The waters around Krabi are clear and ideal for snorkeling and diving. There are approximately 40 licensed dive operations around Krabi and they’ll take you on dives to see gorgeous coral, leopard and whale sharks, moray eels, dolphins, and turtles. Rock climbing is also popular and available to novices and serious climbers. In the evening, don’t miss going to one of the restaurants on the beach, where you can pick out your freshly caught fish and have it prepared for your dinner.

Krabi Tourism (www.krabi.com). One Stop Krabi (www.1stopkrabi.com).

Tours: Sea Kayak Krabi ( 66/75-630-270; www.krabidir.com/seakayakrabi). Sea Canoe Thailand ( 66/76-528-839-40; www.seacanoe.net).

When to Go: Nov–Mar.

Krabi Airport.

$$ Red Ginger Chic Resort, 168 Moo 3 T. Ao Nang ( 66/75-637-999; www.redgingerkrabi.com). $$ Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort, 155 Moo 2, Nong Thale, Musang ( 66/75-628000; www.sheratonhotels.com).